BRINGING HOME YOUR PUPPY:  Now it is time to prepare for your puppies homecoming.
 

We will try to cover everything to make you and your puppy's first days easy and comfortable ones.
 

Lets first go through Food and Water DISHES.  There are many different types, ones for small dogs, ones for large dogs and ones for long eared breeds and short eared breeds. Be sure to look at your many options when making your choice, and get the ones that are most functional for your needs. They will then most likely remain bowls and not additional new TOYS.  You will also need some food to put in the bowl!  Your new puppy from Magic Parti Poodles has been raised on Purina Puppy Chow.  Purina has been a leader in pet nutrition for over 100 years and we have found puppy chow to be an outstanding food for our young puppies.
 

Next we will need to have some toys ready.  They will need them for TEETHING and EXERCISE as well as old fashion playing.  The selection of toys today is enormous.  We recommend choosing several of different textures to begin with.  A HARD TOY will distract your puppy from chewing hard things around your home.  Second, he should have a SOFT TOY, something he can chew up with out getting into trouble.  When he has his own fuzzy to carry around he won't have to borrow from you.  Also an ACTION TOY that would involve you would be a wise choice. 

There are tug of war types or a fetching toy. There are many choices, choose one you can use together.
 

When you bring your puppy home you should have a proper sized or adjustable COLLAR and a LEASH.  First put the collar on the puppy and let him get used to it.  There may be some attempt by the puppy to remove it by trying to scratch it off... Gradually he will become accustomed to wearing it.  Once used to the COLLAR we can now try the LEASH.  At first your attempts to walk the puppy should be done in a fun place. Like outside, where his natural instinct to explore things will distract him from the feel of the leash.  Shortly he will be accustomed to the leash and then to being walked.  We actually prefer a halter rather than a collar to lessen the chance that your puppy get caught on something and accidentally hang himself.
 

Puppies need a safe-play area in the home to adjust to his new surroundings. This also aids in HOUSEBREAKING.  We usually suggest using a GATE to confine the pup in the kitchen or other room.  Therefore he can be confined and safe, but able to eat, drink and play with toys.  Also to use papers if left alone for long periods of time.  A KENNEL is highly recommended to use as your puppy's own safe place as well as a bed.  He will look upon the kennel as his own den, this will greatly assist in the housebreaking.  Being a den animal by nature dogs and puppies do not like to soil their den.
 

In preparing a puppy for travel, or temporary confinement, water should not be given for several hours before being crated/confined for over two hours. Your puppy should have the time to eliminate it before it is crated for the night.  There should be no food in the crate, only in the play area or other parts of the house. However BEDDING and toys are definitely allowed in the CRATE. This is your puppies special area and he should enjoy it.
 

Other items that you should have on hand for the new puppy are good puppy SHAMPOO /CONDITIONER if necessary and proper BRUSHES and COMBS needed for your breed.  As discussed in the grooming section, SLICKERS, RAKES and STEEL COMBS are very useful.
 

You are now ready for your puppy, and probably a little more aware of the responsibility you are undertaking.  One I believe is well worth all of your effort. Being well prepared to bring the new puppy home can now be a fun and learning experience.
 

TEMPERAMENT: Poodles are a very elegant looking breed and seem to have an incredible sense of humor.  They are loyal, gentle, obedient, and exceptionally good with children.  The Poodle adores human companionship, and dislikes solitude. Nonetheless, the Poodle is sensitive and nervous around strangers and will sometimes develop minor personality problems.
 

Some Poodle owners will say that their Poodles have a very human way of acting and thinking which is totally unique to this breed. They seem to have an innate intelligence. The Poodles ability to learn is considered exceptional.  Poodles seem to be faster than other breeds at learning that words spoken by us actually mean something and they are required to understand. Some Poodle owners believe that Poodles come pretty close to understanding our grammar and sentences rather than just single spoken Words.
 

Hyperglycemia is a central nervous system disorder caused by low blood sugar.  It occurs in Toy Breeds between the ages of 6 and 12 weeks.  Most often, it is brought on by stress and can occur without warning when a puppy is placed in a new home or while being shipped and is something new Toy owners should be on the look-out for. 
 

The first signs of low blood sugar are those of listlessness and depression.  The condition is recognized when the puppy lies down and does not play.  Another sign is if the puppy staggers when it walks or falls and does not get up or just appears exhausted for prolonged periods after playing.

 

To prevent this from happening, put honey on the puppy's food or give it 0.5cc of nutracal twice a day as a precautionary measure.  If the puppy has a low blood sugar, give baby pedialite instead of water to keep the puppy from becoming dehydrated.  Treat as soon as possible.  DO NOT PANIC if you find the puppy limp and he seems to be unconscious.  Give the puppy honey immediately and rub it's little body to keep the heat generated.  keep the puppy from getting too cold and stiff.  If within 10 minutes the puppy has not responded, take it to a vet immediately.
 

Here are a few tricks of the trade for minor puppy illnesses that have worked for us.  We are not Veterinarians but we have found these "home remedy's" to work in a pinch....
 

                                          If the throwing up does not stop within 8 hours, contact your vet.
 

OK, maybe not everything, but here are 30 of our best random tips for new puppy owners. They're all the things learned from experience. And, experience comes from making mistakes! Feel free to add other tips you've collected over the years. If you are a trainer, attach a business card and use this laundry list as a handout at your next puppy socialization or kindergarten class.
 

2. Support system: Start a list of the names and numbers of experienced dog people you can call for advice, referrals or just to brag. Start this list using your breeder, veterinarian, trainer, feed store and then collect cards from "dog people" you meet during outings with your pup.
 

3. Is this the vet for me? For each visit, prepare one or two questions for your veterinarian. After two or three appointments, ask for a copy of your dog's records. Then, read them. If they seem complex, or if your pup has been ill, ask a knowledgeable dog-person to review them with you. If you've had the pup in for check ups and shots and the written history only lists inoculations, search for another vet. Good records should include the pup's weight, appearance, and vital signs, etc. plus any questions or concerns you've raised. A good medical history is worth its weight in gold as a future diagnostic tool.
 

4. Chew treats: Puppies are chewing machines. That's how they explore their world. Much like human infants, everything goes in their mouths. Especially at teething time, provide your pup with a variety of textures for chewing pleasure. Some of my favorites are:
 

Ice cubes - made with water or low sodium broth
 

Large carrots - especially nice if dipped in water and placed in the freezer
 

Kong toy with natural peanut butter rubbed inside - leave a little extra for the pup's exploring tongue
 

5. Pup meets cat: Separate the new pup from your house cat until the pup is tired. Make the initial, supervised introduction or get-acquainted visit when the pup is energy depleted. If your cat is extremely testy, consult with your veterinarian about mild sedation for the feline.
 

6. Be mentally present: When you can't be with the pup mentally and physically, the pup should be crated. Years ago, my 10-week old poodle managed to chew an Indian rug that was sitting under my chair - while I rubbed her back with my foot! I was physically present, but my mind was concentrating on the computer screen and not the pup's mouth. Her slurps were coming from a frozen carrot - right? Wrong!
 

7. Internet advice: The Internet is a great place to meet other pet owners, do research on your breed of choice, and pick up health and training tips. However, do not believe everything you read on the Internet, in books or in dog magazines. Use common sense and when in doubt, consult your veterinarian or members of your support group.
 

8. Puppy poop: As often as possible, especially if your pup is not totally housebroken, clean up puppy poop while it is fresh. This gives you the opportunity to check for parasites or possible foreign materials. If you notice these, blood, mucous or extremely foul odor, it's time for a trip to the veterinarian for the pup and the stool sample.
 

9. Not in front of the puppy: Be careful what you do around your pup. Spading weeds from your flowers may be a chore for you. However, the dog may find it's a great way to learn about digging holes.
 

10. Poke privileges: All family members must be able to handle any part of the pup - including feet, teeth, under the tail and genitals. From the first day your pup becomes part of your household, make certain to practice gentle handling of all body parts.
 

11. What's normal? To determine normal ranges for your pup's temperature and pulse, practice taking these readings. Ask your veterinarian or technician to show you the proper method of taking a rectal temperature and where to find pulse points. That way, if you pup isn't acting quite right, you have a baseline from which to judge illness.
 

12. Different strokes for different dogs: It is possible, and often desirable, to have different rules for different dogs living in the same household. My toy poodle is allowed on furniture. My German Shepherd Dogs are not. This isn't unfair. The rules are consistently trained and always enforced.
 

13. Kodak moments: Take a photo the day your bring the puppy home and weekly, thereafter, for the first year. What a great way to chart growth and create a scrapbook. An album of these pictures makes a wonderful gift from family or friends.
 

14. Dear diary: If the pup exhibits periodic behaviors or symptoms, begin a diary. List the day, time, symptom, what happened a few days before, etc. From skipping meals to occasional scratching, your diary can provide important information and clues to your veterinarian, as well as helping you decide when to seek professional help. This is also good for training issues.
 

15. One set of rules, please: Make certain all household members agree on the rules for the new puppy. From the minute your pup joins the family, everyone should be using the same command, enforcing the same boundaries and rewarding positive behavior.
 

16. What's the plan? What do you plan to do, long term, with your new dog? Are you going to do tracking? Agility? Schutzhund? Many of these activities require basic work, now, while the pup is young. Make a game plan and a training schedule. Start a notebook to chart your progress.
 

17. Just dropping by the vet: Take your pup to the vet's office just to say "hi." That way, the pup will have less animosity when its time for shots or a check up. Familiarity with the smells, sounds, etc. makes the visiting the vet more routine and less traumatic.
 

18. Look: isn't that sweet? Some things you may find cute in a pup can be problems in a grown dog. A 10-week old Fido playing tug with your socks is cute. But when Fido is two years old and eating your shoes, it's not cute; it is destructive. Stop a problem before it becomes a bad habit.
 

19. You ought to be in pictures: Take lots of videos of your pup when he/she is young. You'll really appreciate this later. And, as an added bonus, reviewing the video will allow you to objectively assess not only the pup, but also your behavior while training, playing, etc.
 

20. Take it easy: Pups are little balls of energy. Yet, they need lots of rest. Don't set your expectations too high. Let your pup have plenty of "down time." If you have children, make sure they understand the pup must have "time and space" to rest and be left alone.
 

21. Back off, kid: Kids and pups can be the greatest pals in the world, or the dog can learn to hate children. Supervise your children when they play with the pup. Make certain they never tease or torment. When the puppy has had enough play, give it "space" and a quiet place to nap.
 

22. Rubber ducky: Make bath time lots of fun. Get the puppy used getting wet and having a bath early on. Speak to the dog in a happy tone, rather than a soothing one. This is fun, no reason to be afraid. Heck, you may end up with a dog that tries to jump in the shower or tub with you!
 

23. No begging: Don't allow the puppy to get away with begging. If you don't reward the pup for this behavior now, you will not have to deal with it when company is present. Consistency, consistency, consistency.
 

24. Go for a walk? Soon these words will be magic. Take your pup for short walks. Exploring the world together is a terrific way to expose your pup to new experiences. But remember: they tucker-out easily, so don't overdo.
 

25. Stress is contagious: Puppies are sensitive to your emotions. If you are upset or having a bad day, do not introduce new commands or objects. For example, if you've had an argument with your boss and then start introducing the pup to loud noises, the pup may easily interpret the stress emanating from you to mean that loud=scary. Wait until you are in "neutral" and can be patient and encouraging.
 

26. Don't push it: Puppies learn better when you don't try to teach too much at one time. Make the sessions short and always end on a good note. Make sure the training is fun for the puppy and he/she will learn faster and will be more eager to please. If the pup is having difficulty with one exercise, end on a good note and try again another day.
 

27. Keep them occupied: A bored dog can be a destructive dog. Give your pup something to keep it occupied. Toys are important to stimulate a puppy's brain activity. Choose items that won't confuse the pup. Chew toys that look like shoes are not a good idea.
 

28. The baby's crying: When you bring your new puppy home, try not to over-pamper it, especially the first night. Don't run in and offer comfort or tell the pup to be quiet each time it whimpers or whines. If you do, your pup will learn that crying brings attention. Bad message.
 

29. Gotta go: Don't forget that pups have to go potty more often than adult dogs. Make frequent trips outside. Also, when going outdoors, go to one area of your yard and wait for the pup to do his/her "business" before playing in other spots. This will aid in housebreaking and make clean up easier.
 

30. Love lasts: Your pup will be a full-grown dog before you know it. A dog is a long-term commitment. Some breeds live 15 years or longer. That adorable puppy still needs love and care when it is full-grown. If you care for your pets, they will return the love many times over.
 

And, in closing, a few thoughts:
 

Bringing your pup home is a wonderful, exciting time. It's the beginning of a life-long friendship. Plan to bring your pup home at a time when the household is calm and not a lot of activities are scheduled. Holidays and stress-filled periods are a "no-no."
 

Never be afraid to ask for help. Should your pup become aggressive towards people or other animals, or exhibit any traits that make you feel uncomfortable, immediately seek help from a professional. This behavior will neither improve nor will it go away without expert evaluation and training. Be responsible. Make certain your pup knows the rules for being in public and is a welcomed member of your community.

 

Good luck and good training!
 

Socialization and puppy training is of utmost importance since puppyhood is the most important and critical time for your dog's development. What you do and do not do right now will affect your dog's behavior forever.
 

Socialization
 

A properly socialized dog is well adjusted and makes a good companion. It is neither frightened by nor aggressive towards anyone or anything it would normally meet in day to day living. An un-socialized dog is untrustworthy and an unwanted liability. They often become fear-biters. Often they like to fight with other dogs. They are difficult to train and are generally unpleasant to be around. Un-socialized dogs cannot adapt to new situations and a simple routine visit to the vet is a nightmare not only for the dog itself, but for everyone involved. Don't let this happen to you and your dog. Start socializing your new puppy NOW! The Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine agrees that the socialization period lasts up to about 12 weeks (3 months) of age. However, at 12 weeks, the puppy must continue socialization to refine its social skills.

Socialization most easily occurs before the puppy is 3 months old. Any later than that and it
becomes an excruciatingly difficult and time-consuming process that very few owners have the
time, energy, money or patience to cope with.